Kemptown is the neighbourhood that feels most like Brighton’s own personality concentrated into a few streets. It sits east of the city centre, stretching from the Palace Pier area to Brighton Marina, and centres on St James’s Street and St George’s Road. Time Out named it one of the world’s coolest neighbourhoods, and while that kind of label gets thrown around loosely, Kemptown earns it through what is actually there rather than what people say about it: independent shops, proper pubs, a flea market, a vegan pizzeria that started a national chain, a seafood boil house, a microbrewery and a seafront that includes an outdoor swimming pool and the oldest operating electric railway in the world.
This guide covers Kemptown Brighton by what you will actually want to do there, split into eating, drinking, shopping and things to do along the seafront.
Table of Contents
Quick Reference Table
| Category | Picks | What to Expect |
|---|---|---|
| Eating | The Gothic Crab, Purezza, Busby and Wilds, Cafe Marmalade | Seafood boils, vegan pizza, gastropub food, morning coffee |
| Drinking | The Hand in Hand, Black Dove, The Well | Microbrewery, cocktails, craft beer and natural wine |
| Shopping | Brighton Flea Market, Kemptown Trading Post, Kemptown Bookshop | Vintage furniture, antiques, books, curiosities |
| Seafront | Sea Lanes, Volk’s Electric Railway, Yellowave | Swimming, sauna, beach sports, heritage railway |
Where to Eat
Kemptown’s food scene runs at a different pace from central Brighton. It is quieter, more neighbourhood-focused and full of places that locals return to regularly rather than visit once.
The Gothic Crab
Brighton’s first dedicated seafood boil house, tucked in the heart of Kemptown. The concept is Cajun-inspired: piles of king prawns, lobster, crab and mussels cooked with corn, potatoes and sausage, tossed in a sauce of your choice and tipped onto the table for hands-on eating. Bibs are provided. The interior is gothic-chic with dark walls, chandeliers and velvet. It also serves oysters, calamari and lobster burgers for anyone who wants something less messy.
Purezza
The UK’s first entirely vegan pizzeria started here in Kemptown before expanding to other cities. The sourdough pizzas cover classics like margherita and meatball marinara, all plant-based, and they have picked up awards at world pizza championships and locally at the BRAVOs. Even if you are not vegan, the food is good enough to make the point without preaching about it.
Busby and Wilds
A gastropub with locally sourced food and a menu that moves between British classics, French-influenced dishes and pub sharing plates. The space is light and relaxed, and it works for both a proper dinner and a casual drink with bar snacks.
Cafe Marmalade
A small independent cafe open daily for coffee, pastries and light lunches. It is the kind of low-key local spot that does not try to be anything other than a good neighbourhood cafe. Good for a morning stop before exploring the rest of Kemptown.
Where to Drink
The Hand in Hand
A tiny, bright yellow microbrewery pub on Upper St James’s Street near Brighton Flea Market. It has been on this corner for over 150 years and won Brighton’s Best Local at the Brighton Restaurant Awards. The interior is crammed with curiosities and the beer list runs to more than 40 options, including their own brews. Live jazz on Sunday evenings. It is small enough that drinkers regularly spill out onto the street, which adds to the atmosphere rather than detracting from it.
Black Dove
A cocktail bar at 74 St James’s Street with a ground-floor bar and a low-lit underground drinking den below. The look is dark, gothic and deliberately moody. They host DJ nights and live music, so check the latest listings if you are going for music. They do not serve food but you can order takeaway pizza from nearby. Good for later in the evening when the west end of St James’s Street picks up.
The Well
A craft beer tap room and bar at 102 St George’s Road with a deliberately different feel from the pubs around it. Vintage decor, Moroccan rugs, leather sofas and a focus on craft beers alongside a curated selection of natural wines. You can drink in or take away. It is quieter and more relaxed than the bars further down the hill.
Where to Shop
Kemptown’s shopping is almost entirely independent. The main stretch runs along St James’s Street and St George’s Road with a mix of vintage, antique, book and gift shops.
Brighton Flea Market
On Upper St James’s Street, this is a proper flea market with multiple traders selling vintage furniture, retro homewares, records, prints and one-off finds. The stock changes regularly.
Kemptown Trading Post
An eclectic antique and vintage market with a mix of collectables, furniture and curiosities. Cup of Joe, a cafe inside the trading post, is worth a stop in its own right.
Kemptown Bookshop
At 91 St George’s Road, this bookshop has a cosy upstairs cafe and hosts regular talks and events. The selection is carefully curated rather than massive, with a focus on good fiction, local interest and independent publishers.
Along the Seafront
Kemptown’s seafront runs from near the Palace Pier east towards the Marina. It is quieter than the central Brighton seafront and has its own set of things to do.
Sea Lanes
A relatively new seafront development on Madeira Drive that includes a heated outdoor swimming pool, saunas, a gym and food and drink outlets. It is part of an ongoing regeneration of Kemptown’s seafront and has quickly become a local favourite for swimming and wellness.
Volk’s Electric Railway
The oldest operating electric railway in the world, running along the seafront from near the Palace Pier to Black Rock. It is a short ride but a genuinely interesting one for the history alone. It runs seasonally, so check before visiting outside of summer.
Yellowave
Brighton’s beach sports venue on Madeira Drive with sand courts for volleyball and other sports. It also has a cafe that feels more like a beach bar than a sports facility, and it is one of the few places in Brighton where you will find actual sand rather than pebbles.
Practical Tips
Getting there. Kemptown is about a 10 to 15 minute walk east from central Brighton along the seafront, or a short bus ride. It is roughly 30 minutes on foot from Brighton station.
Best time to visit. Weekday mornings are quietest for shopping and cafes. Weekend evenings are best for the bars and nightlife along St James’s Street. The seafront activities at Sea Lanes and Yellowave are best in warmer months.
Combining with other areas. Kemptown sits between central Brighton and the Marina. You can walk from The Lanes through Kemptown to the Marina in about 40 minutes, stopping as you go. It works well as part of a full day exploring different parts of Brighton.
FAQs
What is Kemptown Brighton known for?
Kemptown is known for its independent shops, LGBTQ+ culture, vintage markets, pubs and restaurants. It is quieter and more neighbourhood-focused than central Brighton but has its own strong identity. Time Out named it one of the world’s coolest neighbourhoods.
Is Kemptown worth visiting?
Yes. If you have already seen the pier, The Lanes and North Laine, Kemptown gives you a completely different side of Brighton. The Flea Market, The Hand in Hand pub and the seafront at Sea Lanes are all worth the walk.
How do I get to Kemptown from Brighton station?
Walk south to the seafront and then east along the promenade. It takes about 30 minutes on foot. Alternatively, several bus routes run along the seafront and St James’s Street.
What are the best restaurants in Kemptown Brighton?
The Gothic Crab for seafood boils, Purezza for vegan pizza, and Busby and Wilds for gastropub food. Kemptown Brighton also has smaller cafes and delis worth exploring along St George’s Road.
Is Kemptown good for nightlife?
The west end of St James’s Street has a cluster of bars and is the centre of Brighton’s LGBTQ+ nightlife scene. For something quieter, the pubs and bars further into Kemptown Village are more relaxed. For a wider look at Brighton’s nightlife options, the main clubs are in the city centre.
Final Thoughts
Kemptown Brighton is the part of the city that most rewards wandering without a fixed plan. The streets between St James’s Street and the seafront are full of places you would not find by searching online, and the neighbourhood has a pace that feels genuinely different from central Brighton. Start at the Flea Market, have lunch at one of the restaurants, drink at The Hand in Hand and walk the seafront to Sea Lanes. That is a full day in Kemptown and you will not have run out of things to see.
